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TOOLS Glass Cutter: Selecting your first glass cutter is an important decision. Experienced teachers know that the cutter you choose can often make the difference between quick success and total frustration. You must consider hand comfort as well as budget and anticipated frequency of use. Self Lubricating with Tungsten-carbide Wheel: These cutters are by far the most popular among stained glass enthusiasts. They have a long lasting tungsten-carbide wheel with the added benefit of self lubrication (cutter lubricant is purchased separately). The higher initial cost of this cutter will be quickly offset by lower accidental glass breakage. Traditional Cutter with Steel Wheel: These kinds of cutters are the least expensive and sometimes are referred to as "beginner" cutters due to the low cost. They are available in a variety of handle shapes made of metal, wood or plastic and must be lubricated prior to each score (cutter lubricant is purchased separately). While these cutters can produce a satisfactory score, they take considerably more practice to master than the self lubricating tungsten-carbide wheel models. Glass Pliers Combination Breaker-grozer Pliers: As suggested by their name, these pliers were designed for a double duty and will quickly become the most versatile "must-have" tool you own. They have one curved jaw and one flat jaw which meet only at the tip. Their primary function is to grasp the glass securely on one side of a score when breaking it apart. Both jaws have serrated teeth to assist in their other duty, called grozing, which involves removing small bits of glass from an irregular edge. Soldering Iron: Soldering is the act of melting an alloy (solder) to join metals, such as copper foil. To sustain the proper melting temperature required for stained glass soldering, you will need an iron between 80 and 150 watts. A wand or rod-style iron with a steel-clad chisel-point tip between 1/4" (6 mm) and 3/8" (10 mm) wide is the best choice for stained glass crafting.. Glass Grinder: Experienced glass crafters know that no matter how accomplished they become at glass scoring and breaking, some adjustment will be necessary for a precision fit of the glass pieces. A glass grinder makes this task seem almost effortless. These special machines are offered with models for occasional-duty to professional-duty. They feature a diamond embedded grinding head, which rotates in a reservoir of coolant. The coolant reduces chipping and helps eliminate harmful glass dust. The use of a grinder will instantly increase the quality of your work while reducing the frustration. Please "think about safety" & use safety glasses or goggles while grinding. Work Board: You will need a work surface for glass cutting and project assembly. A piece of 1/2" (12mm) plywood 24" x 48" (.5m x 1m) or similar size will be sufficient for most projects. Lathekin or Fid: This tool is used to burnish (flatten) the foil to the glass edges, among other uses. Glass Pattern Shears: The special triple blade design of these scissors automatically removes a narrow strip of paper while cutting the pattern template pieces. By removing this narrow strip, an allowance is made for the foil and also provides a margin for error in glass cutting & fitting. Glass Marking Pens: A medium point black ink marker is necessary to trace the pattern onto most glass, but darker glass will need a special white-paint marker. Push Pins, Strips & Nails: You will need push pins, tape, small nails and wood strips to hold the glass while soldering. A prepackaged kit called the Morton Layout Block System contains the items you will need for most projects. Drawing Equipment: Pencil, eraser, ruler 18" to 36" (.5m to 1m), drawing paper, pattern card, carbon paper, drawing square, and masking tape. To Your Success Mike McDonough
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Mike McDonough has been crafting for many years. His major areas are candle making, polymer clay, scrapbooking, stained glass, and jewelry making. You can read more articles from Mike at efscrafts.com