YOUR FIRST PROJECT - THE COPPER FOIL METHOD

Pattern Making: After you are confident with your glass scoring and breaking skills, choose a novice skill level pattern for your first project. You will find thousands of stained glass designs available in books as full-size patterns, complete and ready to use. However, you still need to create the actual glass cutting templates and the assembly drawing. This is done quite simply by tracing two copies of the original design. Use carbon paper to trace one on standard paper and one on heavier pattern card. After tracing, number each piece to keep track of your pattern pieces. The final step is to cut the pattern card into the actual templates for glass cutting. Do this using the special glass pattern shears to make an allowance between each pattern piece for the foil and solder.

Trace and Cut the Glass: Trace one of your pattern templates onto the selected glass with a marker, remembering to transfer the code number. Cut that glass piece out by scoring on the inside of the traced line, not down the middle. Periodically check the accuracy of your scoring by placing the pattern template back on top of the cut-out glass piece. Continue scoring and breaking until all pieces in your project are cut out.

Assembly Jig: If your project is square shaped build an assembly jig around the outside line of your working drawing; if your project is free-form, use push pins. Arrange all your glass pieces on the drawing inside the jig. Some pieces will require grinding to make them fit properly.

Fitting and Shaping: Starting with a corner glass piece, compare its shape carefully with the lines on the working drawing. Mark all areas that are over the line with your marker, then take that piece to the grinder and selectively remove the extra glass. Place the piece back into the jig, position an adjacent piece, mark the areas which are oversize, grind and replace it. Position the next adjacent piece, mark, grind and so on until all pieces fit as accurately as possible.

Foil Wrapping: Before starting the foil wrapping process, each piece of glass (and your hands) must be clean. Pull a length of foil tape from the roll and peel back 2" (5cm) of the protective paper backing. Press the sticky end of the foil firmly onto the glass edge, leaving exactly the same amount of overhang on either side. Peel slightly more backing, move further along the piece and press the foil to the edge, peel more backing and press firmly as you continue around the glass perimeter. When you get back to the starting point, cut or tear the foil, leaving enough length to overlap the two ends at least 1/4" (6mm). Crimp (fold) the foil down over the glass edges with your thumb and index finger by pinching and pressing toward the center. Wrap and crimp all glass pieces in the project. Finally, burnish the foil tightly against the glass on both front and back sides using the rounded edge of your lathekin (fid) to ensure that the foil does not pull away from the glass. When all pieces have been foiled and burnished smooth, place them back into the assembly jig where they should be snug but not bulging. Do a final quality check and make any last minute adjustments.

Soldering: All foiled joints must be completely soldered (not just at the corners) to create the metal web which will hold the project together. Soldering begins by brushing flux on the foil seams. Now, with the hot soldering iron in one hand and solder in the other, place the iron tip directly on a foil seam and touch the solder to the top surface of the iron tip. The solder will immediately melt and coat the foil under the iron tip. Move the iron slowly along the seam, continuously adding more solder, filling gaps and covering the foil as you go. The idea is to build up solder on the seams until it forms a rounded bead. When you have finished one side, remove the assembly jig, turn the project over and completely solder the back side. All exposed foil must be coated with solder, including the outer edge.

Hanging loops: If you plan to hang your project in a window you should solder wire hanging loops (16-18 gauge un-insulated copper wire) to the top edge. Be sure to attach them at a solder seam only, a foil-only edge will not be strong enough to hold the weight over a long period of time.

Cleaning & Antique Patina: Thoroughly clean your project with glass cleaner & a soft rag. If you plan to "antique" the solder seams, apply the patina solution with a cotton rag immediately after cleaning. Patina is a corrosive chemical, so please use caution, "think about safety", wear rubber gloves and carefully follow the safety instructions on the patina container.

To Your Success
Mike McDonough

Article Source: http://www.joannes-crafts.com